The narrow Hutongs and alleys have been greatly diminished in the last decade, and now that Beijing is preparing for the Olympics in 2008, this progression will only accelerate. And yet the areas as yet untouched retain an air of calm, as befits a grand old city that has seen so much history that even as the next road over is wrenched screaming into tomorrow, the old single storey homes and courtyards, the street vendors and trees sagging under heavy branches just seem to shrug with a dignity and tranquility that seems at once as surprising at it is proper.

Beijing’s roads now throb with congestion, but an hour’s drive will see you in the countryside, in picture postcard China. Cross a painted wooden bridge or while away an afternoon in a water garden and you’ll find it difficult to reconcile the two Chinas: at once utterly inseperable and completely at odds.

The recent influx of decent foreign restaurants and fast food outlets gives Beijing’s hungry consumers a choice like never before, but this has in no way infringed on the local wares. Anywhere you go, you’ll find yourself almost stumbling over street vendors. Just follow your nose – you’re never more than a good breath away from a unique dining experience. Every eatery has it’s own slant on the local dishes, but expect a lot of Beijing favourites like dumplings, steamed buns and noodles with fresh meat and vegetables.

Winter blankets Beijing and Northern China in a way quite unlike their Southern neighbours, and when the cold drives Beijingers indoors, they revel in their reputation as China’s drinkers. While the snow piles up at the doorway, you’ll hear shouts of ‘Gambei’ as locals fuel their own internal furnaces with bai jiou (white spirit). You’ll pick up a bottle of Yan Jing beer for as little as 2.5 yuan in a locals’ restaurant. A pint in an expat bar could be 30 yuan upwards.

Although mind bogglingly huge, Beijing is surprisingly straightforward when it comes to getting around. The bus system is extensive and very reasonably priced, and half an hour’s ride in a taxi’ll set you back about 30 yuan. The metro line is clean and efficient (not to mention ever expanding), and an LCD display lets you know the next stop in English.

Living in Beijing is constantly surprising. The locals have a laid back attitude for such a big city and are always willing to help foreigners (and practice their English!) And your teaching salary will go a long way. Beijingers like to socialize, and with around seven times the average local salary, you’ll have no trouble getting the most out of your time in China’s capital.